Thursday, 10 January 2013

Another Cushion Cover

My take on this pattern (below) made on my Silver Reed SK860 (6.5mm) gauge knitting machine.

Another first for me ....  inserting a zipper

There's a great tutoturial  by Interweave Knits ...

Like most things I do, I take information on board and adapt it. On this occasion, instead of using a mini latch tool to make the chain stitch, I marked the rows per inch and made a chain embroidery stitch each side of the zipper as 'the hook' to sew the cushion sides on to. It worked a treat!

This version can be knitted on any standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine

Friday, 4 January 2013

Santa Cushion

I was inspired make a machine knit version of this Bernat Santa Cushion crochet pattern.

The first challenge was to how to get the diagonal effect on the knitting machine.

I made a square and then folded back the corners. The seams were then mattress/kitchener stitched. 
I added several rows of latch tool chain stitch (behind the stitches); this firmed up the edge, before casting off.

The Chinese Ball buttons used for the closure at the back were fun to make.

I crocheted the red ball nose using the Amigurumi technique.

Eyelash yarn was added for the beard which was weaved with the white yarn.

Back of cushion

Tuesday, 1 January 2013

Fingerless Gloves Machine Knitting Pattern

                                                                                                                                                             Click on image to enlarge            

Fingerless Gloves

Knitted on a mid-gauge SK860.
Can be produced on an LK150 by latching up the rib sections.

Tension: 7 stitches/inch
Abbreviations: M1, increase/make 1

Cast on LN18.. RN18

Set carriages for circular/tubular knitting
In a K2, P1 configuration
|| || || ||
  |  |  |  |

Set RC to 0
Knit 21 rows   (K2, P1)
Transfer ribber stitches to the main bed
Row 22 Increase 4 stitches evenly across row (40 sts)
                        Knit 4, M1, Knit 9, M1, Knit 9, M1, Knit 9, M1 Knit
Row 23 Knit
Row 24 Knit
Row 25 Knit 18, M1, K2, M1, Knit 18 (42 sts)   [these increases make the gusset for the thumb]
Row 26 Knit
Row 27 Knit
Row 28 Knit
Row 29 Knit 18, M1, K4, M1, Knit 18 (44 sts)  
Row 30 Knit
Row 31 Knit
Row 32 Knit
Row 33 Knit 18, M1, K6, M1, Knit 18 (46 sts)  
Row 34 Knit
Row 35 Knit
Row 36 Knit
Row 37 Knit 18, M1, K8, M1, Knit 18 (48 sts)  
Row 38 Knit
Row 39 Knit
Row 40 Knit
Row 41 Knit 18, M1, K10, M1, Knit 18 (50 sts)  
Row 42 Knit
Row 43 Knit
Row 44 Knit 18. (Work on these 18 stitches).    Put remaining 32 (14+18) needles into holding position.
Row 45 Knit
Row 46 Knit
Row 47 Knit
Row 48 K2, P1
Row 49 K2, P1
Row 50 K2, P1
Row 51 K2, P1
Row 52 Cast off.

Rejoin yarn to next 14 needles
Repeat Row 44 (put remaining 18 needles into holding position).
Repeat Rows 45-52.

Rejoin yarn to remaining 18 needles.
Repeat Rows 44-52.

Sew thumb gusset seam.
Sew side seams.

Sunday, 16 December 2012

Girls Bobble Trim Sweater

 Click on any image to enlarge
Knitted on a mid-gauge SK860 in double-knit (worsted) acrylic yarn from a basic shape child's pattern from Designaknit8.

I started each piece with waste yarn, leaving open stitches at the bottom.  The pieces, when finished, were hung on the needles (upside down) and divided into batches of 13 stitches.  Each batch of stitches were hand-tooled by making the central lace pattern; I thought this would be a good way to form the shapes into triangles without showing ugly decreases at the edges.  The shaping reduced the triangle down to 5 stitches, which then became the perfect start for i-cord (for the bobble).  I knitted 24 rows for the i-cord,  tied a knot and secured the bobble from the end thread of the finished i-cord.

Thursday, 13 December 2012

Felted Tote

How cute are these?

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Knitted with Alafoss Lopi Icelandic 100% pure new wool yarn  from a free pattern download from Ravelry.
This is a handknitting pattern that I converted for machine knitting - I added the bobbles using the shibori technique.

See top tab Felted (Fulled) Machine knitting - Shibori Style for a description of this technique.

Shibori comes from the Japanese word shiboru; an ancient Japanese craft and is a term for the process of introducing resistant items into textiles to form three-dimensional effects. The word shiboru means to press, squeeze or wring. Tie-dying is another example of shiboru.

Saturday, 8 December 2012

Empisal Knitmaster 305

This weekend I offered to get an elderly lady's knitting machine going; it had been in her attic for about 20 years.

The whole task was a bit of a challenge; the first thing I did was to remove the needle retaining bar (sponge bar) and that was when the trouble started. Most of the needles skewed and appeared jammed.  At this point I would say that I've stripped down my Brother knitting machines several times and am very familiar with the process.

It seems that the end of each needle, not the hook end, needs to sit above a spring loaded comb-shaped plate before it slots into a grid at the back of the needle bed.  Each needle needed gentle coaxing and manouevering to release it from its jammed position. 

Then all needles were soaked in a jar of surgical spirit for a deep clean. The sponge on needle retainer bar had disintegrated and was completely flat.  I then cleaned the whole bed with a vacuum cleaner, it was so full of dust and fluff. My vacuum also retrieved a metal double-pointed knitting needle from inside the needle retainer bar tunnel!

The needles were replaced and I ran over the back rail, the heels of the needles and the front rim with lightly oiled cloth.  It is now gleaming clean and ready to go.

Things to remember about changing the needle retaining bar is ...

  • Use a blunt implement to gently push the bar out. 
  • When removing needles, the latches need to be closed.
  • When inserting needles, the latches need to be open.
  • Replace any bent, or damaged needles and check that latches open and close easily.
  • The needle retainer bar goes in metal side up and sits on top of the needles.
  • The needles need to be held down during the insertion of the needle retainer bar - best done by holding down a few at a time, inserting the bar a little at a time.